It was the first of six consecutive weeks spent in Nicaragua
on my first trip to that Central American country in 1989. We were in Estelí, 90 miles
north of Managua, the sprawling Nicaraguan capitol.
Estelí
is legendary for the stand its people took in the dying days of the Somoza
dictatorship. Estelí was the place the Somoza family was determined to exact “final
revenge” on its way out of power. More than 15,000 casualties were suffered in
the city as the Guardia Nacional attacked Estelí in those awful days.
In 1979, as Somoza and his followers fled, the Revolution
ended. The Sandinistas took control. A decade later the counter-revolution
neared an end. That war between the US-funded Contras and the Sandinistas was
fought largely from Estelí
north to the Honduras border.
Too
many years of being on the frontline of internecine warfare turned the city
into a frontier-like existence where the constant exposure to life-threatening
risks gave way to continual violence of all sorts.
My
guide that day was a young Nicaraguan who, years earlier, had been captured as
a revolutionary and tortured by Guardia officers. He wanted me to see the
back-alley culture of his hometown.
Walking
along the streets on a quiet Sunday afternoon the bullet holes in buildings and
the bomb craters left by the departing Somozans ten years earlier were evident.
We arrived at a building, not more than a dilapidated warehouse. The sign above
the door read “Pelea de Gallos Hoy.” Cockfights Today.
Inside,
the building was filled with smoke and noise. The floor was dirt, its walls
grimy. There were no women, only men. It seemed all were smoking cigarettes,
drinking rum, and shouting angrily at one another. Many were waving hands full
of Cordobas, the local currency, which in those days was being devalued by the
hour.
We
worked our way to the center of the building. There we found a rather small,
blocked off area, about the size of a boxing ring. Instead of ropes, a wooden
fence about three feet high surrounded it. The shouting intensified as we
neared the outer perimeter of the fence.
Three
men circled each other in the ring, two holding roosters in their hands. They
each shoved the face of their rooster into the face of the other man’s bird.
The taunting caused each of the cocks to become increasingly angry. The third
man appeared to be a referee of sorts. At his signal, the other two men threw
their roosters to the ground and the cockfight began in earnest.
It
didn’t last long. Razor-sharp
knives called gaffs, about 3 1/2 inches long, were strapped to the birds’ legs.
The roosters attacked each other with unnatural viciousness. The birds
screamed. Blood flew. The gaffs cut deeply into each bird. They continued to hack away, puncturing
the other’s body and gouging one another’s eyes.
Within
minutes one of the birds did the greater damage to the other. It was held high
by the referee and the crowd cheered loudly as he declared that bird the winner
while the other bird was tossed out of the ring into a pile of dead and dying
losers.
The
noise died down a little as Cordobas exchanged hands from those who bet on the
loser to those who had money down on the winner.
“Why do
the birds act so aggressive toward one another?” I inquired. “Las drogas,” was
the answer. The fighting cocks are shot full of stimulants before a fight. The
drugs cause them to react to one another in a way that they would not
otherwise.
Witness the cruelty. Click on www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNfPLez2gNw
Cockfighting isn’t simply cruel. It is barbaric. I was
horrified to learn that this blood sport may have occurred within a few miles
of my own home. But Cheyenne isn’t a frontier village in a third world country.
The District Attorney should take seriously this horrendous violation of our
community values and prosecute all involved to the fullest extent of the law.
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